New Wine Maker at Jackson Family, Bulk Wine Should Be a New Brand But it’s Not, American vs. French Chardonnay, A Nice Serving of Half a Glass and More in This Edition of Woody’s Whine!
“l like the “Whine” because it’s about good food and drink and has interesting tidbits.” MarMar
By Woody Mosgers
Writing from the edge of the Russian River in Sonoma County
Jackson Family Wines Has A New Wine Maker
Randy Ullom first joined Jackson Family Wines in 1993 and for much of his career there, he has been the head winemaker for Kendall-Jackson wines, making the most popular Chardonnay in America: the Kendall-Jackson Vintner’s Reserve. “[The wine] brings a smile to a lot of people’s faces,” he told Wine Spectator in 2022. He explained that founder Jess Jackson’s goal was to make an expensive-tasting wine for the average person, a mission he was honored to take on. (It actually was the result of a mistake in the wine making process that turned out well for KJ.)
Ullom will be stepping back and taking his place is Kris Kato, who has worked as a winemaker at the Kendall-Jackson winery in Monterey County since 2014, where he has overseen the Central Coast piece of winemaking for the brand.
Kato comes to Jackson Family from time spent with Charles Shaw (Two Buck Chuck) and with Constellation where he made everything from Black Box to Blackstone to Estancia to Paso Creek to Mark West. Kato says Constellation was a monumental step up in quality, getting to work on six, seven different brands — a real value to me in that chapter of training.
He joined Jackson Family in 2014 when he felt he was ready for a new challenge.
“I knew that this was the next quality rung up the ladder and I’d be working for a family. Also, having the resources, all the estate vineyards, the plethora of tools that I would be allowed to have to make quality wines, the opportunity was just so unbelievable”, he mused.
Kato has worked with Ullom for over a decade, learning how to produce high-quality Chardonnay at high volume.
“All Vintners Reserve Chardonnay is barrel aged. It sounds impossible”, Kato muses, “But every decision the company makes is financially driven for quality first. I had to reset a little bit, but in a very good way. How do you balance tradition and legacy with innovation? That’s something I think about every day. KJ Chardonnay has been number one for 33 years. I want it to be number one well beyond my days”.
Wine Spectator
Bulk Wine Glut Hasn’t Brought New Offerings, Unfortunately
Over the past few years, the global wine industry news has been a playlist of impending doom. Wine consumption is declining and, yes, there’s a glut of grapes. Unsurprisingly, economic anxiety is the track of the day.
California in particular — representing well over three quarters of the total domestic production — appears to be approaching dire straits. While this year’s totals are still up in the air as harvest and crush continue, the data according to California-wine broker Turrentine, shows about 25 million gallons of California wine on the market, the majority of it red. “We’re drowning in wine.”
The moment is theoretically ideal to develop new, high-quality value offerings in the $10 to $20 range.
“Right now, the bulk wine market is in a very unique position”, says Sid Patel, CEO of the Beverage Trade Network. “A lot of juice that would normally be snapped up for higher-end programs is now available at value levels because producers need to move volume”.
It’s absolutely a buyer’s market, with those looking to procure high-quality bulk wine spoiled for choice. “Large wineries are using this moment to secure blending wines and lower their cost of goods, while smaller, boutique producers are taking advantage of the variety available to experiment with new products,” Patel adds. “Everyone, from value-focused retailers to private label specialists, is looking to see how they can use this glut to their advantage.” The question is that if they can make it, can they sell it?”
The nasty catch in what should be a domestic bulk bonanza is that, even under the anvil of all this price pressure, U.S.-sourced bulk wine is still relatively expensive.
“The costs of making and selling wine have risen dramatically: land, labor, compliance, energy, marketing, distribution, you name it,” Patel says. “Even after adjusting for inflation, the total cost base has shifted upwards.”
The major obstacle to new domestic bulk concepts is lack of initiative and risk appetite. “I get the impression that people are sitting around hoping that someone else does it.”
Patel says, “The cost of acquiring new consumers in wine is at its lowest point in years because the supply side is willing to be flexible. If we miss this chance, we risk losing an entire generation to other drinks.”
IV Pro
Chardonnay – American vs. French Styles
Many are misinformed about Chardonnay made in the U.S. vs. France.
- French Chardonnay is often lighter and more restrained, with regions like Chablis, Côte de Beaune, and Mâconnais offering distinct expressions tied to terroir.
- American Chardonnay varies widely by region, from oak-rich Napa Valley wines to fresher, mineral-driven bottles from places like Santa Barbara and Oregon.
The truth is, Chardonnay is a shapeshifting grape. The variety is grown around the world, and blooms in both hot and cool climates. Chardonnay can make wines that are creamy and opulent, or mineral-driven and piercing in France as well as the United States
The nuances of French-made Chardonnay
“If I had to distill the differences into the simplest descriptions, French wines are lighter, fresher, less aromatic than American wines,” says Julien Howsepian of Kosta Browne Winery, who makes wine in both Burgundy and California. “Generally, [French Chardonnay is] tighter in texture and weight, longer, skinnier, and elegant.”
The varied aromatics of American Chardonnay
Howsepian describes American Chardonnay as more aromatic and deeper, with more body, roundness, and softness. There’s a freshness and ripeness that defines California wine.
In warmer regions of the state, like the Napa Valley and Sonoma’s Russian River Valley, producers will balance out the ripeness of fruit by fermenting or aging the wine in new oak, which adds flavors of butter or dairy to the wine, via a process called malolactic fermentation.
This process can be divisive. Some winemakers, particularly those in the 1980s and ’90s, used oak with a heavier hand, over processing the wine until it tasted like buttered popcorn. This kicked off a counter-Chardonnay movement in the wine community: “Anything But Chardonnay” (ABC). The other member of the tasting panel is an ABC practitioner.
Winemaking style is everything
Chardonnay can also morph based on who’s making it. Some winemakers love a more opulent, indulgent style, while others prefer restraint and minerality.
“In the end, the style of Chardonnay is mainly the result of the winemaker’s choice and skill,” says Howsepian. “And while regional differences certainly exist, finding a producer whose style sings to one’s preference is the most important result.
If you’re a fan of white wines, there’s a Chardonnay for you.
Food & Wine
Napa’s Heitz Cellars Releases Martha’s Vineyard Grapes
In the pantheon of Napa Valley wines, Heitz Cellar Martha’s Vineyard is among the most exalted. Widely considered California’s first great single-vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, it is marked by a memorably minty aroma — the result, some believe, of the eucalyptus trees that line its perimeter.
Now, for the first time in 60 years, the winery is not buying the vineyard’s entire haul, and other wineries will purchase its Cabernet Sauvignon grapes from the 2025 harvest.
“Heitz no longer wanted all the fruit, and I said, OK, I’ll look for other buyers,” said owner Laura May Everett.
The development comes as Heinz’s parent company, Lawrence Wine Estates, has contracted in notable ways. It has decreased production on several of its brands, laid off some staff, consolidated winemaking and closed a tasting room.
Everett said she has lined up “some significant winemakers” to buy some of the 2025 fruit, though she would not identify them by name. Since harvest has begun, the yields look a little higher than she was expecting, so she expects she may have a few extra tons of grapes in need of a home.
The 1966 Heitz Cellar Martha’s Vineyard became a legendary wine. Its sui-generis character — especially that eucalyptus note — helped legitimize the idea of terroir in Napa Valley, the idea that each vineyard can convey a unique sense of place. It remains one of the most sought-after American wines. Heitz sells its 2019 bottles for $350.
As for the eucalyptus note that many drinkers observe in the wine, Everett agrees with former Heitz Cellar CEO Kathleen Heitz Myers: Yes, there are eucalyptus trees on the property, but their oils don’t get into the wine. That green note is just the natural mintiness of Cabernet Sauvignon.
Brittany Sherwood, hired by the Heitzes, is still in charge of winemaking and is continuing to make Martha’s Vineyard wine — just not all of the Martha’s Vineyard wine.
San Francisco Chronicle
This Heinz poster has hung in our homes for 40 years as the winery was one of my major interests as I became a fan of California wine back in the 70’s-80’s and visited on several occasions and bought many bottles when it was still affordable, fond memories.
Half a Glass
Surprise Winner in Mac & Cheese Tasting
Boxed mac and cheese is a nostalgic comfort food, a late-night snack, and, when all else fails, the ultimate pantry hero. For many of us, it was also the first thing we learned to cook solo.
Mac and cheese selection
Generally, there are two types of boxed mac and cheese found in stores: classic and deluxe. Deluxe versions are usually richer and slightly more expensive than classic boxed mac and cheese.
For this test, we selected popular boxes of both classic and deluxe varieties that are nationally available.
How we tested
Tasters were encouraged to try the samples in a randomized order. They were asked to rate each one based on overall flavor and texture.
For flavor, we looked for a pronounced, well-rounded cheesiness that balanced creamy mellowness with pops of sharp cheddar tang. We wanted noodles with a slight bite that could sustain pockets of cheese sauce. In the end, we were looking for a boxed mac and cheese that tasted like a classic but still was high-quality.
Best overall: Annie’s Shells & Real Aged Cheddar Macaroni & Cheese
The rich, well-balanced cheese sauce had umami and hints of nutty complexity that made it stand out among the rest. But most importantly, it tasted like real cheese, with pronounced, unmistakable cheddar sharpness. “A great standard for boxed mac and cheese,” said one editor.
Best classic: Kraft Original Mac & Cheese Macaroni and Cheese Dinner
“I could tell this was Kraft the moment I tasted it — and it’s still one of the better cheese flavors of the bunch,” said one editor.
The cheese flavor was still present. The sauce was silky and coated the noodles well.
Most surprising: Cracker Barrel Macaroni & Cheese Dinner Sharp Cheddar
The cheddar flavor wasn’t the boldest of the bunch, but it was mellow with toasty, nutty notes reminiscent of white cheddar. The sauce was creamy, slightly gooey, and clung nicely to the larger noodles. It’s worth trying.
Food & Wine
New Top Selling Beer in America
According to a press release from Anheuser-Busch, Michelob Ultra is the No. 1 selling beer in America by volume.
Bud Light, a fellow Anheuser-Busch portfolio member, long held the crown for America’s top-selling beer, but following conservative boycotts in 2023, sales slipped. In June of that year, Constellation-owned Modelo overtook Bud Light in off-premise dollar sales, a shift that led many to frame it as the “No. 1” beer in America. After experiencing what seemed like unstoppable growth, however, Modelo has struggled with the ongoing turmoil caused by the Trump Administration’s tariffs. Now, Michelob Ultra has officially taken the top spot in on-and off-premise volume sales. (Modelo remains the number-one beer in off-premise dollar sales, for now.)
First introduced in 2002, Michelob Ultra isn’t a new commodity, but sales volume has ramped up significantly in the past five years. The macro brew has swelled 15 percent since 2020, gaining over two percent of the market share. And now, it’s the country’s top seller.
“Consumers are buying more Michelob Ultra than any other beer in America,” executive vice president of category insights at Circana, Scott Scanlon said in the release. “The brand stands out as the growth leader in the industry, and it’s showing no signs of slowing down.”
Next year, Michelob Ultra will serve as the official beer of the 2026 FIFA World Cup in North America as well as the exclusive beer sponsor for the 2026 Olympic and Paralympic Winter Games in Milano Cortina. Plus, it will act as the official beer sponsor for the 2028 Summer Games in Los Angeles.
VP Pro
Wine country doesn’t need to be cheaper. It needs to be better aligned with modern leisure time. We don’t need to give it away for free. We need to make it worthwhile.
The problem isn’t the ticket price; too many people aren’t interested in the show.
That’s my Whine and I could be wrong…
My recipe for – Meatloaf Ground Chicken with Garlic and Parmesan and a recipe for Potatoes Creamy Mashed with Garlic and Butter are in fact right here. Enjoy!
Woody Mosgers, cooks, custom caters, writes, drinks, matches wine and food and offers wine country tour information and planning in Santa Rosa Sonoma, CA.